PREPARATION OF THE BLACK RUSSIAN TERRIER FOR THE EXHIBITION AND 
HIS BEAUTIFUL EXTERIOR

The Black Russian Terrier was basically developed as a working breed, so every new owner is enthusiastic about its ability to school and the high threshold of patience. He fascinates everyone with his confidence and calmness at the same time. He is an extremely harmonious, strong and elegant dog, which with its tidy image becomes the pride of every owner. 

BRT requires quite regular care, as we have to comb it weekly, bathe for a month or two (or if necessary) and cut three to four times a year compared to other breeds. Its great advantage, however, is that it has a thick and airy black coat that is odorless and does not fall out.

In order for our BRT to be properly groomed, it is necessary to visit a few shows where we are introduced to properly groomed dogs. If a dog hairdresser does not know this breed, our terrier will quickly become a "Russian schnauzer". This is what happened to us during the first haircut of our puppy, and we found it difficult to hide our disappointment with the new image. If we wanted to appear at the show ourselves, we were forced (of course with the great help of Natalia, an expert of this breed) to learn this hairdressing art; rather sculpting a living statue. Because we want our puppies to be tidy and properly groomed, we cut them with us. However, many people will tackle this art on their own, as it is a real challenge for the owners.

Let's somehow present the whole course of care from combing, bathing, to cutting and drying our BRT:

COMBING

Before bathing, the dog must be thoroughly combed, first with a sparse and then with a thicker comb. You don’t have to torture your dog by plucking his hair if you don’t want him to have bruises or skin injuries. This is avoided by regular combing, as it ventilates the skin and prevents knotting and stagnation of dust, which can even cause skin allergies.
The dog has no personal ambitions and does not care if he is smart or not; he thinks his mission is to stand when he is combed and cut. If we scratch it without causing him any pain, this procedure will make him happy. It’s like a kind message to him. Take 5-10 minutes a day to scrub it and remove all its debris.

However, if the dog's coat is neglected too much and unruly knots form, it is better to bathe the dog thoroughly with shampoo and conditioner and then carefully comb it during drying.

BATHING

For normal care, it is enough to use a regular dog shampoo, but for shows it is better to use a special shampoo for black hair. Wash the dog with diluted shampoo until foam forms. Once the coat is impregnated with foam, wash it thoroughly as the rest of the shampoo irritates the skin. Otherwise, the dog will scratch heavily for a few days afterwards. It is good if we rinse it with a balm, which is also recommended for the treatment of abraded skin, flakes, .. And combing will go better than our hands later.
The water is then squeezed from the body and dried with a towel. A pet dryer can be used for drying.

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GROOMING - HEAD

It should be noted that for shearing we need special long scissors for dog hair and a sufficiently powerful electric shaver (45 W). When cutting, use a comb or brush to comb the hair outwards.

We comb the HEAD down on both sides of the skull and the hair on the muzzle in the direction of hair growth (to pull out the dead hair). The hair on the ears is shaved (3 mm shaver head) on the outside from the bottom up, and the inside is shaved right at the end of the haircut so that small sharp hairs do not make the dog restless. Cut the hanging hair on the edges of the ears with scissors, but be careful not to damage the skin.

FOREHEAD - at the top of the head, prepare a shape with a comb, which will then be shaved with a razor. The size is about 4 and 4 cm (the width is equal to the width of the skull, and the length from the eyebrows to the ears). The hair left on the back of the forehead is gradually cut with scissors (2-3 cm) so that it slowly turns into a long one on the neck. It should look like some kind of hat that makes an extended head effect.

CHEEKS - remove the ear and shave the hair under it and around the neck. Then cut the hair on the cheek so that it is about 2 cm long. The cheeks should be straight. If the dog has a broad skull, shorter hair on the cheeks. However, if the skull is narrow, leave more hair. This will fix the appearance of the head. The head should be brick-shaped in front - the short hair on the cheeks slowly changes to longer on the muzzle and the longest on the chin. If we look at the head from above, it should have a rectangular shape and triangular if viewed from the side. The rim above the eyes remains long and falls forward parallel to the muzzle. As the hair swirls between the eyes and obscures the view below the edge, we cut them short in the shape of a triangle.

GROOMING - NECK

NECK - When shaving under the ears, you can travel down the neck with a razor. The front creates the appearance of a shirt collar (a line is created from the sternum to the shoulder blade). Gradually cut the border between the shaved part and the mane - the transition from the shaved part over the length on the left and right side of the neck (2-3 cm) to the longer hair on the mane. The length of the mane depends on each dog. If the neck is thin and long, leave the hair longer; if the neck is short and massive, leave the hair shorter. The mane should look like a continuation of the neck.
Longer hair remains on the shoulders, and the transition between the short hair on the neck and the long hair on the shoulders must be flowing - the cut lines are smooth.

CHEST-uncles start from the beginning of the chest and go from short hair to longer (3-5 cm) and round the whole front. If the chest is well developed, there is no need to leave a long “shirt”. The sharp chest line is somewhere at elbow height and is directed towards the abdomen. Excessive hair mass can create the appearance of a stocky body structure. If you tried to hide an undeveloped chest under long hair, you would attract the attention of an expert.

SHOULDERS - The length of the hair on the shoulders is 3-5 cm.
BACK - also cut the back with scissors to get a precise line from head to tail. The length of the hair is the same as on the shoulders and sides (3-5 cm). The area of ​​the back in front of the tail is cut even shorter.

TAIL - is clipped according to the length of the hair on the body - somewhere between 2 and 3 cm. We cut even shorter around the genitals. If the tail is short, we need to leave a longer coat on top to seemingly lengthen it. Now the tail is no longer cut, but the hair on the tip is cut as short as possible.

GROOMING - FRONT LEGS

The legs should be combed up so that the protruding hairs can be trimmed well. We form a kind of pillar, and the hair can be over 5 cm long. Cut the paws round.

GROOMING - BACK LEGS

We start uncles from the last ankle upwards. It's best to just shave it all the way to the buttocks and tail (make some kind of pants). The transition between this short hair and the longer one on the thigh (3-5 cm) should be gradual. Properly trimming the thigh can mask any defect or weakness. From the ankle down, shape the leg as a pillar and cut the paw round.

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ZA GROOMING pred in po

After the haircut, BRT must have beautiful and natural silhouettes. Its appearance must be self-assured and full of power and free of all decorations. Let's not despair if we don't like the "product" for the first time. It takes some practice and the results will get better and better. However, it is not in vain to warn us to comb our dog in a standing position, as we will get him used to it so that he will be able to stand for a long time even during the haircut. A restless dog is very difficult to handle nicely.   

(Photos: Natalia Stolbova, Kennel Deneb-Keitos, Rusia) and some ours)

HYGIENIC TRIMMING

The hair between the pads is thoroughly cut to make the paws easier to clean. On the inside of the thighs, the area around the genitals is cut short or shaved (this is especially necessary in dogs so that the hair does not stick together). Cut a triangle-shaped hair between the two eyes briefly to open the view. We also take care of the cleanliness of the ears by removing the earwax and hair so that it does not grow into the ear canal.

(Drawings: Natalija Kolenc)

PRESENTATION ON THE SHOW

The dog needs to be presented in the right way, depending on the breed. The careers of our pets are quite dependent on us, as coming to the show unprepared means quite a bit of confusion and embarrassment. Before embarking on this test, it is necessary to visit an exhibition only as a visitor. We can even record the performance of experienced guides and practice at home. If someone captures us during the exercise, we can see the mistakes from another angle. It is good if the dog participates in the first show as a puppy and starts his career very early. It must be a pleasure to him, not a torment.
When we come to the exhibition with the application form, it is necessary to find your numbered ring. It is good to have a dog box, a container for food and water, a display line and combs and brushes. While waiting for his performance, the dog can rest peacefully in the box (it is good to get used to it at home). Before we present it in the ring, we comb it well and arrange it to shine in all its power and beauty. During the run at the foot (a little away from us) we can motivate him a little more with a treat so that he will not act disinterested. The dog and guide must act as a cohesive whole.

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